Work and Play

Finally a chance to rest and catch up on my journal. The last two days have been hectic to say the least. School Thursday morning and work in the evening. My shift at work was strange, 3-11pm. I keep forgetting that I am in the land of the night owl. Fitness clubs here, open at 7 am and close at 11pm. Everything here is open later. Russian life revolves around what you get up to in the evening. There is no problem grabbing some dinner at midnight. Streets are full of life any night of the week until 3-4am. The last movie sessions' start at midnight! Can you imagine watching "Lord Of The Rings" at this time slot? You wouldn't leave the cinema until 4 in the morning.
Russians generally start work at 9-9.30am and go through until 7-8 pm officially, however most finish up later, (10 or 11pm). A far cry from Communist times when you would finish right on the dot. Sound familiar Australia?! These guys are taking capitalism and entrepreneurial ambition by the horns. They are ravenous in chasing the rouble and are not at all scared of work. The sicky attitude is non existent and thought of as ludicrous. The people work hard, then play even harder and then think nothing of it. No statistical winging about how we are now working longer hours. What's a hangover at work on Moday? It's not going to kill you. I love it! What an attitude!

Far Eastern National University

Today was my first day back at uni. It was fantastic, not a word of English spoken. Even my class mates didn't speak English, as they are all Korean. My Russian feels like it improved in one day. Each day starts at 9.30am and finishes at 1pm. Plenty of time to either work or play in the afternoon.

I thought I'd post a picture of inside and outside the boat, which we traveled on to the picnic.

From left to right- Nas, me, Olya, Igor, Father in law Anatoly and Oleg. As usual we wasted no time in getting stuck into the vodka.

School and Work

Today I went back to university. I completed a Russian language exam in order to assess my language ability. Finding it very challenging, I guess my ability is of a low standard. Check out Ksusha and I at the front of the foreign language department.

Following this, Nas and I caught a bus to "Sun Life", the fitness centre I will start work at on Thursday. As we walked in, every eye in the place focused on us. Foreigners are still a bit of an oddity here and so I keep being told, stand out. Russians certainly dress differently. For women, less is best. Short skirts and stilettos are fit for all occasions. For the men, well you should try and look as masculine as possible. No hair product, wafer thin physiques and defiantly no shaved legs. The hairier the better!

It should be interesting over the next few weeks how I fit into my new work place. After my first workout in 4 weeks, I had my photo taken for the trainer board, picked up my uniform and headed home for a feed of caviar and bread. My new recovery food.

Yesterday after 2.5 weeks we finally received the elusive bag, sent via freight, from Brisbane airport. This particular story is one of Russian bureaucracy as for 2 weeks we have been lead on a wild goose chase. Phone calls to and from Brisbane and Vladivostok, being flick passed from public servant to public servant and finally arguing over fees were all part of the fun in claiming the elusive bag. I don't know how any foreigners survive in here. It's hard enough when everyone speaks the same language.

The Picnic

If you want an example of my fishing experience check out this movie. Apparently, it is hilarious. Subtitles are available.As you could see from the video footage below, the picnic was once again another culture shock. Natasha and Igor demonstrated beautifully the very precise art of shooting in one's bathers. The picnic commenced when Igor, (different from the past referred), a wealthy businessman, picked us up and drove us to his boat; where we proceeded to set up the usual spread of vodka, pickles, bread and a Russian army survival pack! The army survival pack was the menu for a deserted solider. Was it a subliminal message? Was there a chance that we were going to be stranded out there on the river?

The trip up the river was spectacular. Scenic cliffs shot straight up out of the river, water lapping at the shores of pebbled bays, and once again not a sole to be seen anywhere. We eventually set up the picnic on a pebbled beach. Bon fire lit, for soup and shashlik and tables and chairs were erected.
This was a picture of complete "serenity". Then out came the Kalashnikov and Makarov. Once again the Russian surprised me with their fondness to mix two extremes. Plastic bottles were thrown into the river as targets and the blasting commenced. What a sight! Serene picnickers sitting around a fire lunching whilst a Kalashnikov banged in the background.

Russian Picnic

Sitting here at 9am, my ears are ringing as if the night before I'd just seen Midnight Oil play. No yesterday I hadn't seen Tatu or some other Russian rock concert I had gone on a picnic!

What a picnic!

Peculiarities of Russian Fishing. Part Two.

Still Thursday the 23rd of August 2007.
When I last left you, the fishermen had arrived at the lake and looked quite comfortable sitting under the tarp, downing shots of vodka and toasting everything under the sun. With no sigh of a fishing rod, fishing seemed highly unlikely.
My anticipation must have been sensed. Or maybe it was my hints of Gde riba?, Where are the fish? Because out came 5 huge bags of nets. Igor with his limited use of English and fantastic use of charades, proceeded to explain that the use of nets in this lake was highly prohibited and if caught the trip would come to an abrupt end, along with a hefty fine. The risk was worth it, apparently, as there was still no sign of rods and Igor began pushing me towards the dingy.
Setting the nets up took probably an hour, too long for Igor who seemed keen to get back to the other guys, who were making dinner and probably doing a great job at cutting that carton of vodka up.
On the way back from setting the nets up, I could see the camp site had visitors. Looking at Igor's face, they were not the most welcome ones. You guessed it the PARK RANGER had sprung us. My fishing trip had ended, I thought. What a disaster! Hang on, the ranger was waving to me with one hand and holding a shot of vodka in the other. "That's cool" he yelled in a heavy Russian accent. We had been saved, along with another family, the ranger had joined our festivities on the banks of the lake. We offered him a few drinks and the nets just disappeared.
Amazing the power of vodka.
The rest of the night was one big party. Total strangers hooking up and partying like they were friends for years. It's a Russian tradition. Hospitality is in the blood. Never have I met people so giving and genuine. The ranger, with his catch cry of "that's cool" proceeded to let me fire his flare pistol over the lake. Along with a bon fire blazing in the background, the seen was an interesting mesh of wild celebrating in harmonic surroundings. Full to the brim, the five of us piled into the back of the truck and collapsed. Just before dozing off, I thought of my new interpretation of fishing.
The morning was spectacular. Sun shine, a beautiful lake, lush forest everywhere and Oleg sitting at the breakfast table with a bottle of vodka. Do these guys ever quit?! Finally it was time to collect the nets and in true excessive Russian fashion the catch was enormous. 82kg to be exact. Enough to feed a whole city. "The girls back home will be happy", Vadim said.
The peculiarities were something I would have never expected. Never the less I had the time of my life and would do it all again.

Peculiarities Of Russian Fishing. Part One.

Thursday 23rd of August 2007

The day of the fishing trip had finally arrived. The plan was for 5 blokes, (Oleg, Igor, Vadim, Anatoly and I) to head off to the lake, fish, spend the night and then return in the morning.
I love fishing! I love every thing about it. The fact that I was the only one who spoke English, had no idea of where we were going or what to expect, only added to the excitement.
The peculiarities of a Russian fishing trip emerged right form the start. Vadim picked us up in his fishing truck. Not some wimpy little Land Cruiser or Hilux, but a huge Soviet era troop carrier. Cracked windscreen, enormous back canopy and badged up with the old USSR symbol, this vehicle looked like it had done its job for the motherland. The 5 of us were due to sleep in the back and from the look of the truck, without any problem. Then the packing began. If you have read my blog on the beach trip you understand the amount needed for an afternoon at the beach. Multiply that 5 times!
Truck packed to the hilt, Oleg, Anatoly and I jumped in the back, while Vadim and Igor drove up front. 5 minutes into the trip the rituals of Fishing began. Out came the vodka, pickles, bread and sausage. We were to toast the 500 years of the cucumber. Russians are quite inventive when it comes to finding a reason for a drink. Looking down at the carton of Vodka, I declined on the drink and settled for the pickles and sausage.
The lake was 55km away. The last 10km being off road and on the toughest track I've ever been on. There were times when the truck tipped into a horizontal position and life quickly flashed before me. The guys kept reassuring me that this was a very good truck and all was net problem, even if it looked like it had come strait from the Eastern Front. Just when my nerves were ready to break what loomed ahead was spectacular and made the madness of the trip worthwhile. Before my eyes stretched an enormous lake, rolling hills in the background and not a sole to be seen anywhere. Back home a place like this would have dozens of campers, sailor and windsurfers all over it.
We began to unpack and set up our make shift campsite. Kitchen, canopied eating area, and blow up dingy were erected. Great, finally the fishing can begin. Oh no, we must eat and drink first, I was told. Out came the food and vodka as we settled in for the afternoon. One curious point i noticed after unpacking was the absence of fishing rods. Were we ever actually going to fish? And if so, how?
The situation looked ominous as my fellow fisherman progressively became more intoxicated and less likely to be able to do anything except fall asleep.

Stay tuned as the Peculiarities continue in my next installment...

Dal'nerechensk

I am writing form Dal'nerechensk, 5.5 hours outside of Vlad. Anatoly, Nadia, Nas and I are staying with some friends Oleg, Natasha and little Sonia. Fishing, hunting and my favorite of all Russian traditions, the bunya are all on the agenda for the next four days.

The trip here was hair raising to say the least. Russian roads are a mine field of pot holes and in some sections disappear altogether. Coupled with the unofficial open speed limit, I was relieved to make it here in one piece. The drive was visually spectacular. Vast open steppe running for miles intermittently broken by very green hills and valleys. I haven't seen such lush landscape for along time. I guess the drought back home made it even more of a contrast. Provincial Russia definitely has a romantic quality. I don't know if it is the quaint little farm houses, the spectacular scenery or just the simple way of life out here. The vast openness does remind me of home, except that this openness is 3 times as huge. People think nothing of driving all day for ten hours, only to turn back after a day of fun.

Russia is massive! The biggest country in the world: it takes 11 hours to fly from St Petersburg to Vlad, covering 7 time zones. Russia covers a total of 11 time zones. 3 of the worlds top ten biggest rivers are here. Lake Baikal, (2nd biggest lake in the world) is the deepest and holds one fifth of the world fresh water. I read a stat on Baikal, that if all the rivers in the world ran into it for one year, it would still not fill it. That enormity is incomprehensible.

Russian and Western relations

Western mass media are great at brain washing the public and making out that the old Ruskies are the bad guys. We all have perceived perceptions of each country due to upbringing, media and parental political standing. Most Russians are not so naive. They have had years of propaganda and never take anything on face value. To quote my friend Sasha " go to the country first and then make a comment on what the people are like."


Russians, I believe, do have a case to be upset. Check out the map and imagine if it was America encircled by Russian flags.
America want to set-up a "Missile Defence System" in the Czech Republic and in Poland. Even though most Czechs and Poles want nothing to do with it. Is it the States that are afraid of Democracy? No, money and power are the driving factors. Russia has vast supplies of oil and natural gas and if they wanted to turn the tap off, NATO would have trouble even firing a cracker. Imagine if Russia set up missiles in Venezuela, (another country in the America's bad books), it would be the Cuban missile crisis all over again.
It is obvious where my bias lies. A rounded view attributed to my own researching of all media, (not just western media), and seeing Russia first hand.

To quote my mother-in-law "never believe everything you read."

Walking around Vladivostok it is fascinating to remember that just 16 years ago no foreigner was allowed to set foot in this city. Wrapped in a shroud of mystery, Vladivostok was entirely closed to all, (other Russians as well). It remained this way from 1958 to when communism collapsed in 1991. Being the home of the Pacific Fleet it is considered a strategic port. Thank goodness for perestroika and glasnost as Vladivostok is now open to all, (permitted you have a written invitation and visa), and its' beauty can be finally appreciated.

Monday, August 20th, 2007

Funny, you would think the Aussie's would have the killer tans. (Anatoly and Nas)

Since returning from the resort, the last two days have been packed full of activities.

Saturday night Anton, ksusha, Nas and I went clubbing. Now stayed tuned, for clubbing in Russia is one hell of a culture shock. I will post commentary on this unusual phenomena latter.

Sunday saw us rise at a conservative Russian hour of 11am. The family, Anatoly, Nadia, Nas and I, then packed our bags and headed for the beach. Wow, these Russians really take advantage of the sunshine: as when we arrived it was more like trying to find a spot at a rock concert. Now, forget about just taking a towel, water bottle and maybe a book, that would be completely under prepared. Russians take everything: table, chairs, pretty much the whole contents of the fridge, alcohol (good selection of beer, wine and spirits), blow up swimming pools for the kids, BBQ facilities (so that you can cook your meat by the water), umbrella, the list is endless.

So off we go to the beach at around 1pm. Pretty much the process of eat, drink, swim revolved six or seven times.

Cooking comprised of heading to the water, setting up a rock perimeter for your fire, and then roasting your meats over the open fire place. Forget about fire bans, as every family along the beach had their own open fire place.

Before you knew it the time was 8 pm, and still the sun had not let up. I have the third degree sun burns to prove it. The sun goes down here in Vladivostok at around 10pm, so there is plenty of time for outdoor activities well into the night.

From left to right - (Nadia, Igor, Me and Anatoly)

Saturday, August 18th, 2007

The portable Russian style BBQ. Set it up anywhere you like!

Even in the car park!

Food in Russia is an institution. The whole process from growing, selection, preparation, cooking, presentation, consumption and then what you do after a feed, is an ordeal filled with many customs, that we in the west have absolutely no concept of. Many Russians have their own dachas, (little farm houses outside of the city), where all sorts of fruit and vegetables are grown and then of course pickled for the on coming Winters.

Some interesting Russian traditions that revolve around eating -

1. Men always pore the drinks for the women. Girls sit back and relax.

2. Empty bottles are never left standing on the table.

3. Meals are a selections of 7-8 dishes.

4. Toasting friendship, love, health, etc... Always accompany drinking.

5. One drink should be followed quickly by the second for good luck. Then as everything in 3s is also good luck, you should quickly have your third.

6.Running out off food is sacrilege. You can never eat or have enough food on the table.

7. Meals generally last about 2hours with some going all night long.

8. Black tea with lemon accompanied with sweets always follow the main.

Sash and I enjoying a toke for the Kalyean after yet another meal.

Who said Russia was always cold?

Finally, a place where D.T.s are encouraged and not hidden away!

Monday 13th-16th August 2007

The six of us, (Sasha, Maryanna, Oleg, Olya, Nas and I) travel about two hours outside of Vladivostok. Our destination, a seaside resort, where quaint little cabins are the accommodation and the sea is absolutely freezing. It's hard to believe that in the picture above, the whole sea, right out past the islands, freezes over.

It was a go opportunity to check out how Russians like to relax. Who would have guessed that it involved plenty of drinking and eating?! The Russian commitment to the bottle is legendary. It is not uncommon to see many of them cruising around outside, with a bottle of beer, champagne or of course vodka, at any hour of the day. (Bottles of beer do not just come in the piddly old 350ml variety, but in 500ml, 1l and the most common 2l bottles or put more accurately, bochki or barrels.)

Each days' routine followed much the same course.

11am - Get up and crack open a coldie (500ml). Followed by few leaps off a 4 meter platform into a very fresh lake.

11.30am - Breakfast, cards, smokes (that included all Russians except the foreigner) and another beer. You are not Russian unless you drink like a fish and smoke like a chimney.

1pm - Head to the beach, swim in water that puts George Castanza's shrinkage issue to shame and then attempt to get as burnt as possible. I guess if we had 9 months of the year, where you needed a fur coat just to step out the door, we would to.

3pm - Lunch, Cognac or Vodka, smokes and more cards. Stopped intermittently by a plunge off that 4 meter platform, to sober up of course, so one can continue the drinking process.

3pm onwards - Lunch blurs into dinner as more food is cooked, more grog miraculously appears and yet another card game commences.

2-3am - One final jump to freshen up and sleep at last.

Amazingly I survived this process of "relaxation" and am feeling more and more Russian everyday.

Oh I forgot, there was dancing as well.

Last night we met up with some friends for beers by the sea, followed by coffee. We found the cafe however settled for cocktail instead. I was told that in Russia coffee and cocktails were the same thing. From left to right Olya, Oleg, Sasha, Maryanna, Me and Nas.

Korea's a funny place. The people are obsessively polite, fastidiously clean and have a unquenchable thirst for duty free shopping. Incheon Airport reins supreme as a duty free Mecca. Singapore probably comes in a close second in its' duty free mania. Walking around Incheon Airport it is hard to believe that Vladivostok is only 2 hours flight away. The only evidence of Russian proximity lies in the Cyrillic "Please Do Not Touch" (Руками Не Трогать) signs above the Cognac sections in each duty free shop. However, the Russian experience was to finally show itself as we walked to our departure gate. Dressed to kill with tans that put any bronzed Aussie to shame, the Russians stood out! Where the hell were we, a beauty pageant or an airport. No we were definitely in an airport because everyone was lining up to board the plane 30min before the first boarding call. Nowhere else is this unique habit seen, but in Russia or in airports with Russian departure. My wife can not explain this phenomena of strange anticipation. It is like some sort of competition to see who can get on the plane first. One guy even tried to hand over his boarding pass to a Korean Air attendant setting up the velvet roping. "Hold your horses mate", I thought. "Why bother all the stress when we all have seats allocated". The funny thing is, I started to join the game and push for my spot in the queue. The game did not finish just there, for when landing it as if the referee has just blown a whistle for time on again. Half a second after the wheels have hit the tarmac the Russians proceeded to stand, unload their bags from the overhead compartments, and begin the queueing process all over again.
I know that during communist times queues were almost like full time employment, however, this was ridiculous!!! Sure enough the Korean Air flight attendants came bolting down the aisle yelling at everyone to sit down. It was only when the attendants' backs were turned did the game continue. This time the unusual technique of opening overheard lockers while sitting down was implemented.
Finally we arrived at Vladivostok and after racing to get off the plane momentum was cut short as we waited for over an hour for our luggage to be put on the carousel. It obviously takes awhile to check out whats in every ones luggage?! (Mind you this is not a customs check)
Once the conveyor kicked into action the race game started all over again to see who can get out from the airport the fastest. The scene reminded me of a National Geographic documentary showing antelopes race towards water through a bottle neck. At least unlike Brisbane, there were checks to make sure that you have taken the right bag.
At long last we were greeted by Anatoly and Nadia, Anastasia's parents, and their friend Igor. 40 mins later, after risking life and limb through Vladivostok's out off control traffic, we were feasting on a dinner which comprised of 7 or 8 different dishes.
RUSSIA - A FOOD LOVERS PARADISE!!!

Wow we finally made it. What an ordeal! The lead up to departure was one set back after another. Anastasia's smile is one more out of relief rather than pure excitement.

Set back 1. I fall ill 2 days before leaving. (I have not been as sick since I can remember.)

Set back 2. With me in bed and 24hours before departure, Anastasia has to hurriedly clean our townhouse.

Set back 3. Almost not making the flight as we leave Indooroopilly with 15min to spare.

Set back 4. Luggage being 45kg over weight, then having to pack and re pack our luggage on the floor at Brisbane airport 5 times.

Set back 5. Paying $230 to send the extra 20kg of luggage via freight. We are still waiting on it. Last time we checked it was cruising around at Narita airport. Not sure where its' next stop is.

However in the end all has worked out just fine as you can see from the picture bellow. Lazing around the Hyatt in Seoul.

Anastasia's and my farewell party is on tonight. It Should be a great opportunity to kickback, relax and say our goodbyes. At long last I see the light at the end of the tunnel. The trips mundane preparatory tasks are finally being ticked off and the countdown is on. Just 5 days before take off.
Finally the visa has arrived and the house packing is well under way. For some reason the Russian Consulate has an amazing ability to push the issuing of visas right down to the heart stopping wire. As it is my 5th trip to Russia you would think I am used to the process. However, Russian Bureaucracy never ceases to amaze me. This time to save the apprehension we requested a 5 day turn around at the amount of $400. It is astonishing what a little cash can do. The visa arrived in 8 days. It has reminded me of one very important rule when in Russia, "money talks" no mater how long you wait, how many forms you fill out and no mater who you are. The green really does mean go.

2nd August 2007 What to expect?

Purpose



This particular Blog is an attempt at recording one of the most exciting times in anyone's life. An expedition into the unknown. My wife Anastasia and I have resigned from work and packed up life as we know it, here in Brisbane Australia, to pursue an adventure. One of the last bastions of adventure is to leave what you know, your family, friends, work, culture and most importantly your language. Our expedition is to attempt to create a new life in Vladivostok, Russia.

Admittedly I do have an advantage. My wife Anastasia is a native and her family and friends all reside in Vladivostok. However Anastasia has not lived there since she was 17. Now being completely Anglicised she feels the challenge of finding work, accommodation and slotting back into Russian life is not going to be as easy as first expected.

In my case the whole task ahead is both daunting and exciting. Russia is still, for many in the west, an intriguing destination. As a child Russia was, as Ronald Regan put it "the Evil Empire". It was a country shrouded in mystery hidden behind the political Iron Curtain. A faraway frozen land with people who equally had frozen emotions. Poised at annihilating the west with it's massive nuclear arsenal, it's no wounder Russia still to this day holds a skeptical reputation. The Cold War is long over yet due to Polonium poisoning spies, a ruthless Mafia, threats from Chechen terrorists, crashing aeroplanes and a nuclear infrastructure on the verge of melt down, Russia still saddles a reputation like on other. Funnily enough it always has had a reputation as Winston Churchill said "Russia is a riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma."

Nic